Shirt-waist.



No. 863,869. PATBNTED AUG. 20, 1907. T. MULLER. SHIRT WAIST.

APPLIUATIOH FILED APB- 23,1907.

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the two back fashioning blanks or members.

THEODORE MULLER, OF PI-IlLADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

SHIRT-WAIST.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Aug. 20, 1907.

Application filed April 23, 1907. Serial No. 369,839-

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, THEODORE MiiLLnR, a citizen of the United States,residing at the city of Philadelphia, in the county of Philadelphia andState of Pennsylvania, have invented certain new and useful Improvementsin Full-Fashioned Shirt-waists, of which the following is aspecification.

My invention has relation to the production of a shirt waist for ladieswear, comprising a series of fashioning blanks or members of irregularoutline adapted when assembled and sewn together to give the requisitefullness over the shoulders and bust as well as about the stomach andhips, whereby a waist is had which as so fashioned neatly and snuglyconforms as near as possible to the natural lines and conformations ofthe person, and without in arriving at such result having to resort tothe introduction of gores or other insertions into the garment, toaccomplish the defined results.

The nature and scope of my present invention will be more fullyunderstood from the following description taken in connection with theaccompanying drawings, illustrating in plan, the several differentirregular shape configurations or members to be joined by sewing orstitching to accomplish the defined results of providing a fullfashioned shirt waist of my invention, as to constructive arrangement ofthe parts or members thereof.

Referring to the drawings showing a series of irregular shapeconfigurations or members, 1 and 2, are the two front fashioning blanksor members; 3 and 4, the two side and hip fashioning blanks or members;and 5 and 6, The said several fashioning blanks or members, as definedand as displayed as to outlines and conformations, in the drawings, arejoined by sewing or stitching. The two front blanks or members 1 and 2,are cut away at 7, to constitute a portion of the neck of the garment,and the inner lines of both blanks or members are made to flare outwardat 8 and 9, so that when joined by being stitched together, they willprovide a fullness of the garment thereat, to compass the chest; and atthe lower portion, the outlines are varied to form offsets 10 and 11, sothat when these portions are joined, the part termed the skirt of thegarment, will have a fullness which will readily conform to the stomachor abdominal outline of the person, and gracefully span portions of thehips. The side or hip blanks or members 3 and 4, are arrangedcurvilinear in outline at 12, and are recessed at 13 and oppositely at14, to correspond to the arm and arranged obliquely at 15, and terminatein a flaring portion at the bottom. When the blanks or members 3 and 4,are joined to the blanks or members 1 and 2, by simply being sewn toeach other, a fullness is produced of such members over and about thebust, and by reason of the outlines of the side or hip members 3 and 4,next to the members 1 and 2, when joined together is obtained thereby, along side line and a fullness over the hips, without inserted gores, bysimply drawing together and stitching the straight lines a and a of theblanks or members 1 and 2, to the curved outline 12, and recessedoutline 13, of the side and hip blanks or members 3 and 4. The members 5and 6, respectively have recessed arm portions 16, merging into obliqueand flaring outlines 17 and 18, and opposite curvilinear outlines l9 and20. The joining of the members 3 and 4, with the members 5 and 6, alongrespectively, the obliquely and flaringly arranged sides thereof tocomplementally ar ranged outline sides of the members 5 and 6, ispermitted the fashioning of the garment so as to conform to the outlineof the arms adjacent to the shoulders as well as the fashioning of thesides and hips of the garment, to conform to the particular outline ofthese parts of the person. The several members having the outlinesrespectively, as shown, are so fashioned as that when stitched together,to comprise the completed garment such will conform to the naturalconformations of the person thereby providing a decidedly comfortablewaist garment without in arriving at such fashioning of 'the garment,the inserting of gores and without having to pucker or contract byplaiting the defined parts, which constitute the waist.

Hitherto attempts have been made to fashion under waists or corsetbodies, but the fashioning of a shirt waist without the use of gores andplaiting or puckering of certain parts to accomplish such result, hasnot been done. The discomfiture incident to the wearing of a waist notfashioned has been pronounced and recognized by women; and theaccustomed or general manner of accomplishing such, was to insert goresand plait parts. A most simple and effective manner of full fashinging awaist, as illustrated, can be accomplished, as described and such awaist is especially adapted for corpulent persons. Moreover, thelessening of the number of sewing operations, in the making of such agarment renders the same not only simple in form and inexpensive toproduce but also highly desirable, from the standpoint of comfort inwear thereof.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire tosecure by Letters Patent is:

A full fashioned ladies shirtwaist. consisting of front blanks 1 and 2,cut away at 7, to form respectively portions of the neck of the garmentwith flaring portions 8 and 9, to provide when joined a fullness overthe chest and with offsets 10 and 11, which when joined give to theskirt of the garment :1 fullness conforming to the abdominal lines, hipor side blanks 3 and 4, provided respectively with curvilinear outlinesat 12, recesses at 13, and oppo- 5 site recesses at l-i, to conform tothe arms and with ob lique portions 15, terminating in flaring portionsat the bottom and members 5 and 6, respectively provided with recesses16, conforming to the arms and with oblique and flaring portions 17 and1S, and opposite curvilinear out 10 lines 1?) and 20, to permit by thejoining of the members 3 and 4, with the members 0 and G, the fashioningof the garment over the shoulders and along; the sides and portionsconforming" to the hips, substantially as described.

In witness whereof, I have hereunto set my signature in the presence oftwo subscribing witnesses.

THEODORE MiiLLER.

Witnesses .T. WALTER DOUGLASS, EMMA D. CIIAPPELL.

